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  #1  
Old 11-18-2007, 07:48 PM
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1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

Subject: 1999 Mazda MX-5 Miata (Metallic Green)
Paint Hardness: Soft and responded like single stage
Time: 16 hours spread over 3 days.
Areas: All
Chemicals: Prima Swirl, Prima Amigo, Prima Epic, Black Wow, Hyperdressing, Endurance High Gloss Gel for tires.
Tools: Makita Rotary buffer, PC with OneGrip, Compressed Air
Pads: LC Orange, LC White, LC Black

Today's detail is a 1999 Metallic Green Miata. It was a referral from my friend "Longboard Mini", a MINI friend of mine on NAM. From afar, the paint doesn't look so bad.

The new owner had purchased this from a lady who had the car garaged for many years I believe, so the history of the paint was unknown. I believe the wheels in this picture were put on just a few days prior to this work. This was one of my ideal paint polishing projects. Although the Miata is small, I had the car for several days which gave me the opportunity to be as thorough as possible, and checking the progress in the sun as well as getting sunlit day shots when everything was done.





Aww here we are--the trunk lid is swirled out pretty good.





May not be entirely visible here, but there were 6 dents in this panel.

They are much more visible here. Initially the owner thought there were only 3 of them. I saw 4, but not until I clayed and did the first pass of polish did I discover that there were actually 6 altogether!

I've highlighted them here. Two of the dents actually had a dent above and below the dent accounting for the other 2 dents not visible here.

This was one of many defects in the paint.


Swirls are visible here.









I was surprised how bad the orange peel was!



This grey plastic needs some Black Wow! Just One of the areas that will need to be addressed later.

Nothing here except noticing that the lower portion of the body has a protective coating. Will limit the polishing area.


Always interesting to see how certain colors seem to hide defects better than others. The paint looks pretty good from this angle.


Washing the paint and checking to see if there is any protection already.

Notice how the water just kind of sticks to the paint. Doesn't run off, doesn't bead.

It's evident that there isn't much protection on this paint.






By the way, this top is vinyl, not cloth.


Ok now we're in the shop and getting ready to work.


Under the indoor lighting, the defects just pop out




Now that the car is clean, we shall clay it using Meguiar's Professional Mild blue clay. I noticed this bird poo etching.

There was some unknown sticky residue here on the paint.

Lots of swirls and more etchings.



My custom light set up is visible here. Just two gooseneck track light lamps on a painters pole.

Seeing the defects using my lighting rig makes a huge difference.



Ok so time to do some claying.

Lots of bonded contaminants!

Now I've protected the vinyl top and taped off any points of concern.


I like to tape the hood/fender seem as they rarely line up completely and become potential burn points with the rotary.
I also removed the license plates, and the remaining bracket had sharp edges which I taped off to protect my pads.

I like leaving the top up when working on convertibles. I can hold a drop cloth by the two closed doors and just tape the front and rear edges.

Prepping my test spot.



Looks pretty flawless with my rotary, Prima Swirl, and an orange pad.

Ok with the tape removed, it's obvious the amount of correction and clarity of metallic flake.


This was a JPEG that I sent to the customer as a "progress report"




Ok my PDR guy is here now, so I'm pointing out the dents. Pretty hard to photograph them.


PDR work being performed.

My buddy Carlos performing his magic.

While he worked on the dents, I worked on the paint. This was an interesting pattern on the painted area
above the windshield. Not sure what caused it, but you could feel the indentations in the paint.

Not knowing what caused it, I decided to tape it and try polishing it out.

For the vinyl top, I decided to see how Black Wow would work.



It's noticeably darker on the left and more shiny. Wasn't sure if I liked the look with the additional highlights or not.

Even from here, the BW is clearly visible.

There were numerous scuffs and marks in the vinyl, so I had to carefully remove those before doing the BW treatment.

Engine bay was dressed with BW and Hyperdressing.

Finally all done!!!



Not 100% flawless, but close.
































All done! The paint on the Miata is soft. At some point I saw paint on my buffing pad which lead me to believe I was working with single stage,
but it didn't happen on every panel. Maybe it was a repaint, but the owner was assured it was factory paint. So maybe it was just some touchup that came off as I was buffing the mirrors at the time. But the other thing that lead me to believe I was working with single stage was that when removing the polish residue, it was sticky and hard to remove, just like how single stage paint behaves. Regardless, I was extremely happy at how well this restore turned out! I dressed the tires with Meguiar's Endurance High Gloss Gel, used PlastiX with my Metabo SXE400 on the headlights, Meguiar's Interior Quik Detailer for the interior, and Goo Gone to remove stains, Sharpie permanent marker stains, and some shoe scuffs. The Miata may be a small car, but there was plenty of detail to attend to!
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  #2  
Old 11-18-2007, 10:05 PM
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

Awsome!!!!!!!!!!!! You are really mastering your high speed and you need to let everyone know that they are blind without working with the right light. I have watched detailers for years not master or be able to hone there buffing skill because they buff blind outside with no focused light to guide there work.
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2007, 10:13 PM
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

Thanks I really appreciate your comment. Regarding the light--yes, I've had numerous debates on other forums where people just didn't get the importance of proper lighting. Personally I don't find it reassuring at all to be buffing blindly!!

Thanks again!!

Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by PERFECTION View Post
Awsome!!!!!!!!!!!! You are really mastering your high speed and you need to let everyone know that they are blind without working with the right light. I have watched detailers for years not master or be able to hone there buffing skill because they buff blind outside with no focused light to guide there work.
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  #4  
Old 11-19-2007, 04:53 AM
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

lighting is such a key ingredient to detailing.

i mean, you wouldn't cook without a stove/oven would you?

same goes. you need the light.

i use two 500 watt halogen and handheld and my garage lights and sometimes i feel its not enough.

how people, you say Perfection you've seen them detail without lighting is beyond me.

Great job Richard on this. looks awesome. i'm loving that side by side comparison.

Richard, just one question. i'm sure you did a test spot because its you we're talking about and you're a master at detailing. but you mentioned that it (the paint) was soft almost like single stage, yet you still used a Rotary. How come? Why not just a PC with Prima Swirl, Prima Amigo?

I mean, when you did the video, that was single stage as well and it only need M80 and the PC to get all those nasty swirls out?

Thanks for your answers, just trying to learn as much as I can from a pro.

All the best.

Another AWESOME JOB!!!
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2007, 09:30 AM
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

I understand your analogy, but that's not quite what we're saying. It's not just the lack of light, it's the quality of lighting. If I had the choice of how I cooked a Turkey, I'm not going to use a microwave oven over a broiler/oven. Just the same, your two 500 watt halogens might be sufficient for most paint types, but I prefer smaller 50 watt halogen pin point sources focused directly above where I'm working--adjustable as I work, essentially "Swirl Finder" lights that don't need to be held or recharged and point to exactly where I need them to be.

The defects on this Miata were visible under the daylight, but with the indoor lighting under darker conditions, they stood out even more, and with my lighting rig, did even better than the powerful overhead lights. I'm saying that more wattage isn't necessarily better, especially for metallics.

When Mike and I set out to do the DVD, we wanted a really cool car, not a typical daily driver type Honda. We knew this Corvette had a single stage finish, and we wanted to make a video showing you how to use the PC to polish out a car-regardless of whether you had single stage or multistage--the techniques were the same.

For this Miata, the paint type was soft, but it didn't mean that I would choose a PC over a rotary to do the work? Why? Because the rotary, in the right hands, does a very thorough job at restoring the paint. The PC with the right pad/chemical system can do very similar work to the rotary, at the expense of speed. Since we're talking about 16+ hour details by rotary, it's really not an option to do 20 or 25+ hour details, and certainly not at the rates I charge.

The test spot on the Miata wasn't performed to determine if I should use a PC or rotary. It was done to determine what chemical, tools, pad choice, and steps I would take to get the finish to as near flawless as possible while retaining as much paint as possible. So yes, the PC may have done a great job at restoring the paint as well, but the rotary is my tool of choice for getting the job done right the first time and with the best possible results.

When I work on a customers car, my choices are made based on what is right for the situation, not what could be used by someone else reading my articles.

My point is, start with the tools that you're most comfortable with and then choose the system that gets the results you desire.

Good questions!

Richard

Quote:
Originally Posted by Calogero View Post
lighting is such a key ingredient to detailing.

i mean, you wouldn't cook without a stove/oven would you?

same goes. you need the light.

i use two 500 watt halogen and handheld and my garage lights and sometimes i feel its not enough.

how people, you say Perfection you've seen them detail without lighting is beyond me.

Great job Richard on this. looks awesome. i'm loving that side by side comparison.

Richard, just one question. i'm sure you did a test spot because its you we're talking about and you're a master at detailing. but you mentioned that it (the paint) was soft almost like single stage, yet you still used a Rotary. How come? Why not just a PC with Prima Swirl, Prima Amigo?

I mean, when you did the video, that was single stage as well and it only need M80 and the PC to get all those nasty swirls out?

Thanks for your answers, just trying to learn as much as I can from a pro.

All the best.

Another AWESOME JOB!!!
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  #6  
Old 11-19-2007, 12:10 PM
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

Thank you.

Gotta play both sides and ask different questions to learn as much as possible.

Yes, for me, the two 500 watt are plenty. I have smaller lights that I've had to use one other time as well.
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  #7  
Old 11-19-2007, 08:07 PM
Mike-in-Orange Mike-in-Orange is offline
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

Another great job with another great write up! Funny you should mention the mirrors appeared to be single stage while the rest of the car was obviously cleared. I used to have this identical car (except mine did not have the body cladding, affectionately called "tupperware" in the Miata community) and my mirrors were not cleared either. I could transfer color to most any pad with almost no effort when working on the mirrors, but the rest of the finish - nothing.

You mentioned several times how workable, or soft, this paint was. That was my experience as well, but beyond it being workable it is also very susceptible - to future marring. I only drove my Miata about 2500 miles per year, the rest of the time it sat in my garage. I treated it identically to the way I treat my other cars, just much, much less frequently. While the other cars remained swirl free for many months - a full year even - at a stretch (telling my my washing/maintenence techniques are pretty darn good), the Miata was like a trained dog: just say "scratch" and it was. Annoying as hell!! The new owner of this particular car needs to be aware of this, and his cleaning technique had better be beyond perfect or it will scratch/swirl again quite soon.

Thanks for the memories, Richard! That Emerald Mica paint looks great in the sunshine!!!
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Old 11-21-2007, 06:13 AM
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

Great writeup. The dark color seems to be like my car, it looks great a few feet away since it hides the flaws so well. Luckily most people aren't as detail oriented as everyone on here seems to be so they just see it as very shiny.
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  #9  
Old 12-11-2007, 02:45 PM
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

Richard, Great writeup and work as usual. The transformation on the miata is unbelieveable. Great work as always.
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Old 12-11-2007, 07:00 PM
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Re: 1999 Metallic Green MX-5 Miata

Quote:
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy View Post

My point is, start with the tools that you're most comfortable with and then choose the system that gets the results you desire.




Richard
I agree 1000%! Hence why I am going to give away my PC. With my rotary and my other polishers on hand I think I can tackle 95+% of paint jobs I encounter.
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